Go(a) Off The Beaten Track

Been there, done that... Determined not to let those words discourage me, I began to put together a series of 'new' things to do in Goa. Extensive research guided me to add 'new' to 'heritage' and I had an oxymoron of humungous proportions!
:)

Every place has its unique history that is reflected in its food, architecture of its homes and buildings, customs and traditions and its music and dance. These are then the best ways to experience a place either as a first time visitor or on repeat visits. Hence our heritage walk in Goa. I am a firm believer of that the best way to 'see' a place is through the eyes of local people who are passionate about it. This led us to Cholta Cholta as "All tours are conducted in English and are led by local experts who support walking and learning" (quote from the website).

* From the 10^th century AD, Goa was successively ruled by the Kadambas, then Muslim rulers who were the Shahs from Bijapur and then the Portuguese. At all times, it remained flourishing trading centre and had sea-links with far flung Arab nations and later with the south-eastern nations. The movement of goods and people and rulers and administrations from these regions influenced homes, buildings and the people of Goa. Its architecture, crafts, arts, homes, names, religious practices are an interesting amalgamation of these.*  

But lets come back to the Panjim church, which is where we started. This church  with its imposing staircase dominates the square and can be seen from afar - even at night from the river cruise! As we sat on the steps our narrator's words painted a picture of Panjim as it would have been. The buzzing of vehicles died down as we were transported in time.

Well-entrenched a few hundred years ago, we walked out and turned into the lane next to the Altinho hill and stopped to admire the majestic staircase that leads up to the Palace of the Archbishop of the Goan Diocese. Many generations must have gone up and down these and still do but a survival instinct in busy traffic forced back into the present moment. 

The walls adjoining the street were festooned with colourful Bougainvilleas and Madhumalati (Rangoon Creeper) adding another touch from colour palette. The view from the top would be stupendous for sure but we had to hurry to keep up with our leader... we were on a walking tour remember?

The buildings in these parts were not the modern high rise structures rather small one or two storey homes with sloping tiled roofs set in small winding lanes. We were in Fontainhas the so-called Latin quarter of Goa. Every structure was of a different colour which were natural dyes we learnt. So it was turmeric or indigo which was the secret of the fascinating colourful homes. Many of these have been restored to their old glory for people to live in or have been turned into guest houses or art galleries.  

Many families continue to use old and priceless crockery and furniture and artifacts on a daily basis.  Wow! Its antiques like these that serve as a bridge between our past and present and allow us to effortlessly time-travel across hundreds of years. Those who are able to enjoy the best of both worlds are incredibly lucky.

Besides other unique features, we noticed the shell windows and tiled ceramic name plates at the entrances. Shell was a wonderful material for windows as it gave privacy plus diffused light. The tiles were typical Azulejos art which is a Portuguese craft of painted and glazed ceramic tiles. Artists have kept this art alive in Goa.

Shell windows

An example of Azulejos art but this image is not from our walk of Fontainhas

The chapel dominates the square and would have been an activity hub in the years gone by. Street planning was not conspicuous in this charming quiet neighbourhood. 

We walked out toward the riverfront through an area which seems to have planned streets and road side drains. The quaint overhanging balconies protect pedestrians from rain and sun! This area still has shops of the 'old' trades - Typewriter repairs for example! The narrow sidewalks had local vendors who sold fresh Papayas, Tomatoes, Bananas and bunches of Tirphal which is spice specially used in Goan food. 

Very soon we had reached the Tobacco Square so named because Goa was a trading hub for tobacco despite tobacco cultivation certainly not being in the vicinity. We then moved past the summer palace of the Sultan of Bijapur (Idalco Palace) to the Abbe Faria Square and the home of Mhamai Kamats. The municipal garden named after Garcia de Orta (who was a physician and naturalist) was up next with its very thoughtful layout of stores. Our walk ended at the Cafe Tato with some authentic  Goan breakfast.Yummmmm

Municipal garden at Panjim

Each of these places has a very interesting tale and some of which is in Cholta Cholta's book called 'Cholta Cholta'.

A memorable walk down memory lane and well off the beaten track! 
Truly a walk to remember.
:)






*Disclaimer: I am not a historian so this post is quite likely to have overlooked several important events. Do refer to more learned resources if Goa's history is what you are looking for.*
**Disclaimer: I have no interest financial or otherwise in  Cholta Cholta .